--- title: "Oven not heating" description: "GE oven not heating — the most useful sentence a customer can say, because it separates the two circuits immediately." url: "https://gemiami.support/symptoms/oven-not-heating/" date_modified: "2026-08-31" Appliance type: "Ranges, Wall ovens" --- # GE oven not heating ### Look for a code before you cut the power GE publishes a table for ranges and wall ovens, and photographing what it shows is worth more than describing it — a reset erases it. It is also worth knowing that their table repeats itself: F0, F1, F6 and F7 all mean the keypanel, F3 and F4 both mean the oven sensor, F5 and F8 both mean the control. Twenty codes describe far fewer than twenty repairs. ### The code table is shorter than it looks GE lists twenty entries for ranges and wall ovens, and several of them share a meaning. Reading it honestly narrows a problem to a circuit — keypanel, sensing, control, door lock — and the measurement on site names the part. A page that turns twenty codes into twenty different repairs is padding. ### Self-clean deserves its own mention The cycle runs the cavity far hotter than cooking ever does, and if a range is going to fail this year, self-clean is when. On an older appliance before a holiday, that is worth knowing. The bake element The ordinary electric answer. Elements fail without a visible break often enough that looking is not a test. The oven sensor GE's F3 and F4. An inexpensive part, and on many models a calibration offset solves the complaint with no part at all. A control relay or the board F5 and F8. Worth measuring the sensor first, because a control acting on a bad reading behaves like a failed control. The igniter, on a gas oven It glows and still fails to open the safety valve. Measured for current draw rather than judged by eye. An overheat protection that has tripped F2 or F20 — the cavity exceeded a threshold and the control stopped. Common after self-clean. Photograph the display Codes are erased by cutting power, and the code is most of the diagnosis. Confirm the cooktop still works That single fact separates the oven circuit from the appliance's supply. Try both bake and broil One working and the other not is itself the diagnosis. Note what it was doing when it stopped Self-clean is the hardest thing this appliance ever does and the commonest moment for an ageing part to give up. The cooktop works and the oven stays cold What it usually means Burners heat, oven does not An F code on the display It heats but never reaches temperature Look for a code before you cut the power GE publishes a table for ranges and wall ovens, and photographing what it shows is worth more than describing it — a reset erases it. It is also worth knowing that their table repeats itself: F0, F1, F6 and F7 all mean the keypanel, F3 and F4 both mean the oven sensor, F5 and F8 both mean the control. Twenty codes describe far fewer than twenty repairs. The code table is shorter than it looks GE lists twenty entries for ranges and wall ovens, and several of them share a meaning. Reading it honestly narrows a problem to a circuit — keypanel, sensing, control, door lock — and the measurement on site names the part. A page that turns twenty codes into twenty different repairs is padding. Self-clean deserves its own mention The cycle runs the cavity far hotter than cooking ever does, and if a range is going to fail this year, self-clean is when. On an older appliance before a holiday, that is worth knowing. ### It shows Bad Line. That is not a repair. GE's table says the unit is wired incorrectly, and it needs an electrician or the installer rather than an appliance engineer. ### The oven heats but the temperature is wrong. That is the sensor or the calibration rather than the element, and on many GE ovens the calibration costs nothing to try. --- **[Read full article: Oven not heating](https://gemiami.support/symptoms/oven-not-heating/)**